How Beer Sparked Human Civilization, According to a Comic Book

There is a strong case to be made that beer, in all its frothy glory, is the most important invention in human history. Hiccup. Hear me out.

Humans have been brewing beer for at least 9,000 years, and we have raved about its unique taste and pleasant buzz every step of the way. On a macro scale, beer has nourished empires, strengthened alliances, and sparked revolutions, while on a more intimate level, it has acted as a muse for countless prominent writers, artists, and thinkers. Across time and around the world, beer has been a source of comfort, inspiration, and solidarity for humankind.

As brewer and beer historian Mike Smith puts it in his comprehensive graphic history The Comic Book Story of Beer, "beer is the quintessential beverage […] We have made it part of our most important rituals."

And Mike Smith, with his brewer's background and encyclopedic knowledge of beer's history, ought to know. Together with co-author Jonathan Hennessey and illustrator Aaron McConnell, Smith has managed to distill the story of beer—from its earliest origins in prehistory to the modern craft brewing movement—into 170 pages of colorful graphic narrative. Given how influential this drink has been throughout the millennia, that is a feat worthy of toasting.

I chatted with Smith about the process of creating The Comic Book Story of Beer at his booth at New York Comic Con, and asked him where he thinks brewing is headed in the future. Whether you are a casual beer drinker, content to crush PBR cans, or are a bonafide beer scientist, read on, and cheers.

Motherboard: The book delves into the role of beer in the evolution of human civilization. What do you think are some of the coolest theories and findings with regards to beer's influence on early human society?
Mike Smith: Well, I think the coolest thing of all is that beer and civilization are so intertwined from the earliest days.

We explore the "Beer Theory of Agriculture" in the book. There is a very convincing argument that beer was actually the reason that hunter-gatherer societies in the ancient Middle East developed agriculture. It is hypothesized that they settled down in permanent settlements because of the need to brew beer. Beer was probably first made by a happy accident, but once early humans tasted beer and experienced its mind altering effects, it seems to have taken on religious and cultural significance.

I also think it's cool that one of the oldest examples of writing ever discovered is a beer recipe.

It's called the Hymn of Ninkasi, and it's a prayer as well as a recipe. That just goes to show how intimately beer, religion, and culture are linked.

Considering that we have now entered a real golden age of brewing, how do you see beer evolving in the future?
Wow, that's the question!

When I was coming up in the mid to late 90s, the main thrust of the industry was classic English, German, and Belgian styles. The pioneering craft brewers saw the beer culture in Europe and wanted to replicate it in the US and made some awesome beers. A lot of today's "next generation" brewers are standing on the shoulders of these giants and seeing way over the horizon. Folks are really pushing the envelope, experimenting with ingredients and techniques and really expanding the very concept of what beer can be.

So to answer your question, I have no idea where beer is going in the future, but I can't wait to see (and taste!) it happen!

Are there any trends in brewing that you are particularly excited about?
I love the Renaissance of Saisons! They are "farmhouse" ales that originated in northern France and Belgium. Saisons, developed as rustic beers for rural farmhands, are known for having a spicy yeast character and being particularly refreshing. American craft brewers have really taken to this style and used it as a starting point for some very interesting beers.

I'm really psyched about the reemergence of Pilsners, too. We were at the Great American Beer Festival recently and I was trying to taste as many as possible. Pilsners at one point were viewed as "guilty by association" with macro-lagers and it's great to see them appreciated as the awesome beers they are. A good Pilsner really highlights the skill of the brewer.

I also love the fact that everyone seems to be making sour beers these days. They are not exactly easy to make. They harken back to the world's oldest beers. They predate the use of pure yeast cultures, relying instead upon ambient wild yeast and bacteria to ferment the beer. This "spontaneous fermentation" produces very complex acidic, funky beers with unique "terroir."

What's old is new again! At the same time these aren't mere interpretations: today's brewers are mixing old and new and creating unique beers like the world has never seen.

The book contains a massive amount of historical information, but delivers it in concise chapters. What was the research and writing process like.
Concise detail is a real strong point of the graphic novel format. They say that a picture is worth a thousand words and I really think that rings true here. We manage to pack a lot of information in a relatively short 170 pages. I think it also lightens the tone. There is some pretty heavy historical and technical stuff in this book, but it still manages to be fun.

Even just watching folks walk by at the Con, the mixing of comics and beer puts a smile on people's faces.

I am the brewer in our trio. My contribution comes from years of being immersed in beer culture, absorbing trivia by osmosis. Jonathan is quite a skilled researcher and it was fascinating to watch him work. Research is as much a craft as brewing. Add Aaron's considerable talents as an illustrator and I think we make a great team, and I think that shows in the finished product.