Tony
Image: Natalie Moreno, photos by Getty Images
Life

The New Hipster Starter Pack

The 31 latest ways to signpost that you're alt-basic by New York and London standards.

The hipster of your dad’s imagination downed his last small batch IPA many moons ago.

Yes, there was once a period when fashionable young people rode fixies and got fingerstache tattoos; when they wore non-prescription glasses and actively chose to drink out of old jam jars. But that period was 2007. By the time late-night hosts were monologuing about flat whites (a style of coffee available at Starbucks since 2009), it was no longer considered pretentious to “have facial hair”.

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Somewhere in the early 2010s, the high street coopted anything viewed as remotely alt, internet memes coopted irony, and American dubstep fans coopted fluorescent sunglasses. Yet, for some reason, the mental image of a hipster holds as “someone in a plaid shirt sneering about your taste in music”.

Hipsters do still exist, of course – young, cool, in-the-know types are still wearing weird shit, still listening to weird music, still displacing long-term residents of rapidly gentrifying neighbourhoods – but the definition has broadened and blurred, and nobody calls them hipsters anymore*.

Mind you, what happened 15 years ago has happened again: in a bid to be anything but normie, young people adopt certain styles and behaviours, this adoption reaches critical mass, and recognisable “Hipster Basic” signifiers start to emerge. Out with the skinny jeans, in with those cargo pants that imply you’re hugely into urban fishing.

The hipsters of 2023 might be less judgmental than they once were, but in ye olde hipster fashion, here’s a judgmental rundown of just a few of the things that make you Hipster Basic.

*I realise this article literally has “hipster” in the headline, but none of the new terms we conjured up to classify these people – alties, antinorms, copsters – are as neat as hipster. (“Nipsters” – for new hipsters – wasn’t terrible, but the Nazis already got that.)

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Jorts (in the summer)

Crazy it took this long for juggalos to make such an impact on straight dude fashion. Next step: these guys rounding off their GRWM TikToks with a face full of clown makeup.

Insanely baggy pants (in the winter)

Juggalo appropriation strikes again.

Techy Y2K sunglasses

Cool, man – your “heart beats at 140 BPM”. But seriously no need to wear your Oakleys into Tresor, it’s already very dark in there.

Glass of natural wine next to bottle

Natty wine or rotten juice? Photo: VICE

Natty wine

Five years ago, someone decided that “good taste” means drinking wine that tastes like rotten juice. Was that person the illustrator who monopolised the orange wine label market? A drinksfluencer who actually enjoys spending decent money on weird shitty piss wine? Answers on a postcard.

Performatively shitting on Fred Again

A lot can happen in a year – specifically, the period between Fred Again’s Boiler Room and someone realising he went to boarding school. So yes, please continue to wheel out the old “did you know his godfather is Brian Eno??” chat at the afters to impress the girlies, but don’t pretend you didn’t cry the first time you heard “Marea (We’ve Lost Dancing)”.

Polka dot magic mushroom chocolates.

Polkadot bars: Who needs to chew disgusting-tasting shrooms anymore? Photo: VICE

Shrooms (specifically polkadots or mushroom oil tinctures)

Grinding mushrooms into a tea is for VanLifers. Eating them by the handful is for psychopaths. Present-day hipsters either scoff mushroom chocolates – Polkadot bars, Holy Grail bars, One-Up bars – or drip mushroom oil out of their tinctures directly onto their tongues. The latter tastes absolutely foul, but it’s quite fun to start your trip feeling like a Victorian pharmacist.

Woman holding up manicure with tooth gem smile

Tooth gems: Great for the gram, not so great for your dental enamel. Photo: VICE

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Tooth gems

Unfortunately – as chic as they can be – done wrong, tooth gems can also look a bit like you’ve got tin foil stuck to your teeth. Plus, the dentist fee to get them hacked off will make you cry.‹

Maxi skirts with baby tees (preferably a child-sized Brasil t-shirt)

Once the preserve of Rainbow Rhythms-esque hippie communes, maxi skirts have really made a glorious U-turn in terms of cultural cachet. The only rule is you must wear them with a teeny-tiny T-shirt, ideally an infant-sized Brasil tee, because for some reason it’s not been deemed inappropriate just yet.‹

Spiky alien tentacle tattoos

We get it, you’re moving to Berlin.

The ‘blokecore’ aesthetic

We get it, you drink Guinness

Bleached eyebrows

OK! Fair enough!

Man with mullet

A glorious mullet. Photo: VICE

The mullet 3.0

Granted, the mullet renaissance has been going on a while, particularly if you’re a) a 15-year-old boy at an English boarding school, or b) Australian. But lately, those on the more avant garde end of the art school spectrum have been pushing the hairstyle to its most depraved conclusion. Think: a fully shaved head, besides a teeny, tiny quiff and a double rat-tail.

Being ‘Bristol sober’ (only doing ketamine)

You’re clean living and extremely smug about it. But what’s that? A tiny key? A little ketty key pour moi? Well, ketamine is supposed to be good for your mental health these days, I suppose.

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Salomons

The Salomon wave may have started with the gorpcore crews who spend their weekends trail running and wild camping, but they’re now a fixture in every gentrified drinking hole. Which makes total sense: how would all those junior art directors make the treacherous journey from the train to the office without a pair of utility shoes?

Following hyper-local meme accounts

Do you really live in [insert neighbourhood with extortionate rent] if it doesn’t have at least four hyper-local meme accounts, all competing for an increasingly diminishing pie of sponcon and branded content opportunities while attempting to stay archly relevant to an audience purely composed of haters? I don’t think you do!

Long-sleeved shrugs

I still can’t comprehend what weather these are suitable for. When will we be cold enough for sleeves but warm enough for just a cropped vest around our vital organs? It’s giving 90s, it’s giving chaotic Disney Channel stars, it’s giving freezing your hips off.‹

2CB

Once a drug used exclusively by white guys with “third eye” forehead tattoos. Now a drug used by middle class students who wear ÂŁ300 WTAPS trousers to Croatian music festivals. 

Loafers with schoolgirl socks (on men)

I certainly didn’t have “26-year-old male models cosplaying as little girls” on my 2023 bingo card, but here we are.

Dyed red hair on girl

Scorsese red. Photo: Getty Images

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Dyed red hair

2023 is the year everyone dyed their hair a very specific shade of red – or at least saved an album of inspo pics on their phone before chickening out. It’s sort of a “Scorsese red” slash red wine red, and it’s impossible to come back from if you get it wrong. Get clapping on your doorstep for the hairdresser heroes who are about to be on the frontline of salvaging this.‹

A MUBI subscription

You signed up for an account and now you’re a member of the most exclusive club in town: people with a Mubi tote bag. These cinephiles swear that, someday, they’ll watch Lars Von Trier’s entire back catalogue. Don’t fool yourself. It’s not going to happen. Cancel that subscription in shame and return in three months under a new email account when some hottie tells you that he’s, like, really into the films of Jacques Rozier.

Going to harsh noise shows

This one’s fairly niche – something as completely unbearable as harsh noise is never going to find much of an audience beyond, like, Norwegian anarcho-squatters. But the genre does seem to be having a bit of a resurgence at the moment, and there is nothing more edgelord than spending your precious free time wincing through literally the worst music ever created.

Men’s sports bras and crop tops

Sure, wear your white “wife pleaser” or your athleisure crop-top to a night out with the boys, but know this: Real men wear sports bras in the club. For inspiration, please observe Jack Grealish in a lovely little black number.

Martine Rose x Nike shox, or Asics x Kiko Kostadinov

Everyone knows how much you paid for them.

Woman in tank top holding up glass of cider wearing talisman necklace

Long live talisman drip. Photo: VICE

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Talisman necklaces

Long live the drip you begged your mom to buy you on vacation 20 years ago – the ultimate in sustainable fashion.

Online Ceramics t-shirts

This one is fairly interchangeable with: Aries’ “No Problemo” T-shirts, the Praying bikini that made Republican America very red and upset, or basically anything from Heaven By Marc Jacobs. All undoubtedly nice bits of clothing, all ubiquitous anywhere walking distance from a ÂŁ5 oat milk matcha.  

Buying limited edition food drops or frequenting buzzy pop-ups

First they queued for the Thursdays-only kimchi brisket sub, and I did not speak out. Then they came for the limited-edition smoked vanilla and spelt croquembouche, and I did not speak out. Finally, Chanel opened a limited edition bakery cum brand activation moment in my neighbourhood, and now my landlord’s raised the rent again.

Woman wearing a green furry hat at Fashion Week

Normalise looking like Jamiroquai. Photo: Getty Images

Peacocking headgear‹

From supersized scrunchies to the enduring humongous furry hat, decorating your head like a bird of paradise has been proven to always enhance the vibe. Maybe it’s the endorphins from straining to hold your neck up, maybe it’s because that fuzzy hat material just feels really nice to run your fingers through at 3AM. Either way, it’s a quick fix to turning your day around – and it's way cheaper than therapy or a gym membership. Next: Let’s normalise wearing wedding fascinators to work.

Tony Soprano-core

This look – some combination of bowling shirt, vest, gold jewellery, penny loafers and slicked back hair – has obviously been around forever. The 2023 update is that these guys now also have scorpion hand tattoos and a DM screenshot featured on @beam_me_up_softboi. â€š

Going to Mexico, but specifically Guadalajara

Puerto Escondido got overrun by burners, Tulum’s been dead for years and even your mom and dad want to go to Oaxaca now. Where to head for the upwardly mobile gringo who fancies themselves a cut above your average coloniser? Guadalajara, of course – which recently celebrated getting named the world’s coolest neighbourhood, and is likely to regret it in a few years time, when people named “Chad” and “Felicity” decide to resettle permanently because Airbnbs are soooo cheap there right now. (The queer version of this is Zipolite, FYI.)

Rose chokers

Sadly, the 90s choker never goes away for too long. Now, it’s back with a super cute Y2K prom night corsage twist. Available in silk, denim, taffeta, lace, crochet and probably your own shoelaces (at a premium, obviously), consider it your end of summer noose.

Wearing earplugs in the club

Nothing screams “I’ve listened to more techno than you” than advertising you’ve lost 22 percent of your hearing ability.